Saturday, January 14, 2023

Tailoring the past in the present

 I have written recently in this space about my desire in 2023 to up my personal style quotient while lamenting the increasing lack of gentlemanly elegance in both dress and manners in today's society in general.  So this week I wanted to continue that theme somewhat as I take another New Year's detour from my usual arts reporting in this space, if you will indulge me...

Last Saturday, rather than write my regular post here, I headed down to the Hamilton area for the afternoon on a tailoring pilgrimage of sorts.  I embraced both the past and the present while there and it was an opportunity for me to finally connect the dots on a unique purchase I made last summer here in St. Catharines.

You might recall if you follow my social media feeds I came away with a real gem of a find at my local Value Village in July.  Scanning the rack of men's suits and jackets rarely presents a diamond in the rough, but it did this day.  I caught a glimpse of a pair of bright silver silver sleeve buttons, and had to investigate further.

What I found was an exquisite blue blazer that obviously had performed a ceremonial function for a well-dressed gentleman many years ago.  The silver buttons, imprinted with "F.D." suggest it was perhaps the dress jacket for the member of a fire department many years ago.  There obviously were no official emblems or patches, which would have had to be removed once the garment was discarded.  I thought about changing the buttons but so far I have let them remain as they really are special.  I will investigate further the origins of the blazer when I can, but the origins of its manufacture is the real story here.

I always check the inside pockets for any information and right there is a label saying it was manufactured by Firth Tailoring of Hamilton, and inside the pocket was the valuable information it was custom tailored for a gentleman in April of 1967.  This garment I'm holding is now 56 years old!

It is in perfect condition and slipping it on, the fit is perfect as well.  Not a thing needs to be changed.  Amazing.  

It is heavier than your normal blazer and a bit longer, so I chose to utilize it as a fall and early spring coat, over a sweater or turtleneck for warmth.  It cuts quite an elegant look to be sure.

The price?  $21 plus tax.  I felt I had won the lottery!

I love history as well as fine tailoring, so finding both in one garment at a bargain price is for me almost a dream come true.

I took it to my tailor and had an elegant breast pocket patch I picked up years ago as well as a white cotton handkerchief tucked inside added to the breast pocket to personalize it a bit.

So now, the search for the history began.  I found a website documenting the amazing history of Firth Tailoring in downtown Hamilton and discovered the story is an interesting one.  I tracked down a Firth offspring who administers the site, and even sent her pictures of the blazer.

It turns out the company was established in 1890 by tailor and designer Norman F. Firth.  His brother John later joined the company and it became Firth Brothers Tailoring.  The first location was the old Opera House at 106 James Street North in Hamilton, later moving to more spacious location at 144 James Street North, which enabled the company to grow into a thriving retail and wholesale manufacturer.  At its peak in 1959 the company had more than 600 dealers across the country.

Along the way they outgrew the second James Street North location and moved operations a short distance away to a brand new store with adjoining two-story plant at 127 Hughson Street at Cannon in the heart of downtown Hamilton.  

As well as supplying made-to-measure suits, the company supplied as many as 3,000 greatcoats per week for troops serving in the Second World War.

After the war they went back to civilian tailoring and things continued to thrive through the 50s and 60s.  Alas, the advent of cheaper offshore ready-to-wear suits in the 70s largely eliminated the market for fine tailoring for all but a small clientele, and by 1978 the glorious history of Firth Tailoring came to a close.

The building at 127 Hughson Street in Hamilton was then occupied for many years by another men's clothing manufacturer, but eventually they moved on as well and the grand building has sat vacant for many years now, still with the stylized "F" in the front facade at either end of the building.  It has since been bought by a developer and as it is designated a heritage property it will have to be preserved going forward and that is good news.

Last Saturday I had to drive down to see my friends at Stoney Creek Tailors to pick up a small order and afterwards drove into downtown Hamilton to find that now-abandoned Firth Tailoring building.  It is a mere shadow of its former self now of course, but still looking stately and elegant with lots of windows still intact and such a story to tell of the history of men's tailoring in downtown Hamilton.

I stood there on Hughson Street looking across at 127, wearing my Firth Tailoring blazer of course, marvelling at the fact people in that very building put countless hours into the tailoring of this very garment I am now wearing, still looking great 56 years later.

This is what I love about exploring history and how the story evolved.  In a way, I am now a small part of the story as well, I guess, and proud to be so.  This blazer will certainly last the remainder of my lifetime, and that can't be said of many items we have in our collective closets now I bet.

It's funny how a chance encounter in my local thrift shop brought me on this pilgrimage last Saturday afternoon in Hamilton.  That's history.  And that's fascinating.

I will continue to proudly wear my Firth Tailoring blazer and celebrate a great Canadian success story.

Have a great weekend!

January 14th, 2023.

1 comment:

David T. Brown said...

Great article, Mike, about one of many marvellous old heritage properties in Hamilton. Fortunately, this one appears to be safe from demolition, unlike so many others in the city.
The Firth family have established an informative website about the company and the building complete with photos and linked articles, at https://www.firthbrothers.com/ . The property development that now owns the site at 127 Hughson Street is called, appropriately enough, The Finery.